Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 34
Bill Of Materials
Bill Of Materials
Friday, February 27, 2009
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 26 Rectangular Pattern
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 26
Rectangular Pattern
Rectangular Pattern
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 23 Emboss Engrave Text
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 23
Emboss Engrave Text
Emboss Engrave Text
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 19 Filet Variable Radius
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 19
Filet Variable Radius
Filet Variable Radius
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 18 Filet Constant Radius
Autodesk Inventor 11 tutorial 18
Filet Constant Radius
Filet Constant Radius
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 7 Revolve Extrude
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 7
Revolve Extrude
Revolve Extrude
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 7 Revolve Extrude
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 7
Revolve Extrude
Revolve Extrude
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 5 Extrude Base
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 5
Extrude Base
Extrude Base
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 4 Dimensioning
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 4
Dimensioning
Dimensioning
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 2 Plane Sketch
AutoDesk Inventor 11 Video Tutorial 2
Plane Sketch
Plane Sketch
Monday, February 9, 2009
Create Space Drawing by Photoshop
Create Space Drawing by Photoshop
Source:http://timtrice.wordpress.com/2009/01/30/creating-a-space-drawing-in-photoshop/
Step 1 - The Canvas
Create the canvas with:
800px X 800px
Black background
Step 2 - Create new Layer, and name “Stars”
it is very easy.
Make sure your background is transparent
Select Brush Tool (B)
Open your Brushes window and make the following selection:
Under ‘Brush Presets’:
Starburst - Small (50 pixels) - located in ‘Assorted Brushes’
Master diameter = 75px
Under ‘Shape Dynamics’:
Size Jitter: 100%
Minimum Diameter: 1%
Angle Jitter: 100%
Roundness Jitter and Minimum Roundness: 0%
Under ‘Scattering’:
Select ‘Both Axes’
Set ‘Scatter’ to 1000%
Control = ‘Pen Pressure’
Count = 3
Count Jitter = 1%
Control = off
Step 3 - Create the “Sun” on your Background layer (Step 1)
Now we need to work on our local star. Go to Filter > Render > Lens Flare and make the following selections:
Put Flare Center in top left of display window
Make your Brightness 100%
Lens Type = ‘105mm Prime’
You don’t have to choose the same Lens Type. I felt all would fit well but Prime offered the coloring I liked for my image.
Step 4 - Create new layer, name “Galaxy”
What image of Space would be complete without a Galaxy? In my opinion it’s like drawing a human face without eyes. Just wrong.
Select your Marquee Tool (M) and draw an elliptical about 400px wide X 150px high. It doesn’t have to be exact; we’re going to transform anyway. This gives you a bigger area to work with for now. Make your Foreground color #f2e6e6. Go to Filter > Render > Clouds. You want most of your mass to be near the center of your elliptical. If not, keep pressing Ctrl F to repeat the process.
Next, go to Filter > Distort > Twirl. Make the following selections:
Angle: -628% (doesn’t have to be exact, but get a good counter-clockwise swirl in there)
Click OK
Next we need to feather our edges. With your galaxy still selected go to Select > Modify > Contract and type in 25 pixels. Click OK. Then use Ctrl I to invert your selection. Go back to Select > Modify > Feather and type in 25 pixels. Click OK. Then delete. You should have a good feathering on the perimeter of your galaxy yet a good, intact center. Next we need to add a bit brighter center of our galaxy using Lens Flare again. Move your Flare Center to the center of your galaxy. Reduce your brightness to 65%. Select 105mm Prime.
Now, we want to transform our image just a little. I used Edit > Transform > Distort. Move your registration point to the top center of our Transform box. It should snap into place over the little square. Then, grab the little square on the bottom-center and pull up to squeeze your galaxy. You can even slide a little to the left or right to add further distortion. You should now have a good angled galaxy. Hit enter to finalize your transformation. I also chose to rotate my galaxy a little. Use Ctrl T and on the outside of your box click and hold to turn the transformation. At this point, I also reduced the size of my galaxy to 25%. When you get it how you like it, hit enter.
Now move your galaxy to the upper-right corner of your canvas. Looking pretty good, huh? If you want, duplicate yoru galaxy layer and add another 1 or two galaxies. Remember to rotate and resize sporadically to keep with the randomness. And don’t be afraid to rotate and resize however you want. In Space,
Step 5 - Create new layer, name “Comet”
Of course, no space image seems complete without a comet, right? I’m going to use the same color as our galaxy so keep your Foreground color at #f2e636. Do the following:
Select Brush Tool (B)
Select Soft brush, 50 pixels
Click towards the left-center of your canvas.
Next we need to add the tail. Go to Filter > Stylize > Wind.
Method = Wind
Direction = From the Left
Use Ctrl F three times to stretch out the tail.
Now, to duplicate one of my favorite images of a comet, I’ll need to duplicate my “Comet” layer three times. Lock the layer named “Comet”. Mark invisible the layer named “Comet copy”. We should be working on the layer “Comet copy 2″ or “Comet copy copy” (depending on which layer you duplicated the second time).
First, I want to apply a gradient to my layer. Select the Gradient Tool (G). Select a linear gradient from transparent to a light red or pink (#ef7a7a). Use Ctrl Click on the layer’s image box which should select your comet and tail. Not all of the comet will be in the marquee box but that’s ok. Click and hold on the comet’s coma and drag down the tail, releasing at the tip. You should have a pretty decent reddish-pink tail.
Use Ctrl T to transform the layer. Move your registration point over the comet’s coma (where you initially applied the Brush Tool). Outside of your Transform box on the right click and drag up. This should seperate the two comet’s tails from each other but keep the coma’s aligned. Hit Enter. Right-click on our “Comet Copy 2″ layer and select Convert to Smart Object. This will help keep our image clean. Next, I want to use the Warp Transform tool (Edit > Transform > Warp). I adjust my points like the following:
When complete, hit Enter. Next, I want to clean up the tail a little. Change your layer’s opacity to 85% and your Fill to 70%. Use Ctrl Click on the Layer’s image box to select most of the tail. Use Ctrl I to invert the selection. Go to Select > Modify > Feather. Keep the setting at 25 pixels and hit OK. Hit delete to remove the outside part of the tail. You should now have a colorful but faint tail (faint enough to see the stars in the background). You are now finished with layer “Comet Copy 2″. Lock it and mark it invisible.
Let’s work on “Comet copy” now. Mark it visible and do the same transformation we did on “Comet copy 2″, except we’re going to rotate it down just a little (remember to move your registration point over the comet’s coma). Next we’re going to apply our linear gradient again. However, instead of using the reddish-pink we’re going to pick a brighter blue (like in our picture). I chose #3000ff. Apply your gradient in the same manner you did “Comet Copy 2″.
Go to Edit > Transform > Warp now and execute a similar transformation for what we did on “Comet copy 2″. When complete, change your layer’s Opacity to 85%, Fill to 70%. Select your tail, invert your selection, Feather 25 pixels and delete the outside part of the tail. Lock that layer.
You can mark visible “Comet copy 2″ now if you want (I don’t even know why I asked you to mark it invisible earlier!). Now, we want to move our original “Comet” layer above our duplicates. Change this layer’s Opacity to 85% and Fill to 70%. Afterwards, go back to your Brush Tool an highlight once your comet’s coma.
Next, double-click on your layer to open up your Layer Properties dialog box. Select “Inner Glow” and change the following:
Blend Mode: Normal;
Opacty: 75%;
Noise: 0;
Color: #FFFFFF;
Technique: Softer;
Source: Edge;
Choke: 0%;
Size: 250px;
This should give your comet’s coma a realy nice natural glow. Now all we have to do is turn our comet. Select all three of your comet layer’s and link them. You could choose to merge the layers. But I prefer to leave them alone in case I want to go back and change the coloring and what-not. Personal choice.
Use Ctrl T to bring up your Transform Box. Now, remember, all comets tails point away from the star which they’re orbiting. So wherever you choose to move your comet you must rotate it so that the comet is pointing towards the Sun we created earlier in the upper-left. Is there a freedom of artistic choice here? Maybe. But, for me, not keeping to certain guidelines can take away from a normally good piece of work. Some, of course, may 
not care. It’s entirely up to you.
We’ve accomplished a great deal here, haven’t we! We have ourselves a nice image that appears to have come directly out of the Hubble Space Telescope’s massive library! Normally, I’d probably be very happy with this. This piece probably takes about 30 minutes from start to finish yet yields outstanding results (if I do say so, myself!). We’ve kept it real. And that’s fine. But I wanted a dramatic drawing. Ours looks good. But I want more! We need a planet. Like Saturn. One with rings. And this is where we can really let our creative juices run wild! So, let’s get it started.
Building a Planet
Save and close your Space PSD file. We’ll be creating a new one. With the same parameters we used in Step 1 only sized much larger…2500px X 2500px. We’ll need our space especially when we spherize. Let’s name this new PSD Space - Planet. Do we have to use a new PSD? Not necessarily. But creating too many layers and images in one file can really consume computer resources. Plus, I don’t want to be distracted (or accidentally delete a layer). Think of it as a clean slate. Works for me.
Step 1 - Create new layer, name “Water”
Make background color #290eff or another dark blue.
Step 2 - Create new layer, name “Land”
Group this layer into a folder and name “Land” also. We need some type of topography imagery for our landmass. I chose to create it myself. Create a new Layer (no need to name) and open your Layer Style dialog box. Select Pattern Overlay. Select the pattern ‘Metal Landscape’. Click OK. Using your marquee tool select a small portion of this pattern. In another graphis program (even MS Paint will work) paste your selection. We do this because if you paste it back into Photoshop it still recognizes it as a Pattern Overlay. We don’t want this.
After you’ve pasted the selection into another graphics program, re-copy the selection out of that program and go back to Photoshop. Select “Land” layer and paste the image. You can close down your other graphics program. You can also go ahead and delete the unnamed layer.
Select the same piece of image you just pasted. Go to Filter > Pattern Maker and make the following selections:
Smoothness: 1px;
Sample Detail: 5px;
Your pasted image should now be slightly altered and cover the canvas. Alter the color by going to Image > Adjustments > Color Balance. Make the following changes:
Color Levels: -41, +100, -5
Tone Balance: Midtones with Preserve Luminosity checked
You can choose another color style if you prefer. I wanted to go for a greener look.
Add a Layer Mask to the “Land” layer. Click your Layer Mask and Ctrl F (Filter > Render > Clouds). Do this until you feel you like the land masses. Next, go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast. Adjust the Contrast to +100. You can adjust your Brightness higher to create more land or lower to create more water. I chose more land.
Now, while still working our “Land” mask, we’re going to define our land areas and water better. I choose to start off with the Paint Bucket Tool (G). Reset your Foreground and Background colors to Default (D). If I paint black on a portion of my image, that portion and surrounding similar portions will become transparent revealing water beneath. If I paint white on a portion that and similar portions surrounding will paint in land. You may have to play with it a little to get the feel. But you should soon see what we’re doing and be able to come up with a result you like. Remember, Ctrl Z (Undo) is your friend (You also have the History tab at your disposal).
When I’m finished making up my land and water regions, I want to proceed further with rivers. I do this by using my Pencil Tool (B) with a hard 5 pixel point. With black as my foreground color, I will draw across my land areas creating rivers. By using white as my foreground color, I can also expand on my land masses. Use your creativity here.
When you’re finished with your surface, duplicate your “Land” layer. Create another layer with the transparency background and then merge the transparent layer with “Land copy” layer. Rename this layer “Coastline”. Set the Fill to 0%. Open the Layer Styles dialog box and add a Drop Shadow. We want to keep in line with our original Space PSD which had the Sun in the upper-left corner. My plan is to put this Planet in the lower-left corner so I want my Drop Shadow Angle to be 135 degrees or so. Next, we’ll add the “surf-zone” by adding Outer Glow to our layer. Select a lighter color than you did for your water (Hint: When you bring up the color dialog box, you can select anywhere on your water with the already-available Eyedropper Tool to set your color. Then you can alter it as necessary). I used #1493ff. Increase the Size under Elements to about 10 pixels or so. Next, add Inner Glow and use the same color, #1493ff, with a Size of 5 pixels or so.
Step 3 - Create new layer, name “Deep Sea” in Water Folder.
With this layer highlighted, Ctrl Click on the “Coastline” layer image. This should select your land masses. Go to Select > Modify > Expand and enter 5 pixels (more or less depending on how much water you have. Go to Select > Modify > Feather and enter the same number of pixels you did for Expand. Then Ctrl I to invert your selection. Use your Eyedropper Tool (I) to select the color of your Water. Then open your Foreground color box and select a darker shade. Click OK, then use your Paint Bucket Tool (G) and click once anywhere inside the marquee. You should now have a real ocean-look.
Step 4 - Create new layer, name “Mountains” in Land Folder.
With your “Mountains” layer highlighted, click the “Coastlines” layer image to select the coastlines. Use Ctrl I to invert your selection. Go to Select > Modify > Expand and choose 10 pixels or so. Most of your land masses should now fall within this area. Feather your selection by 10 pixels. Use Ctrl I once again to invert selection.
Reset your Foreground/Background Colors (D). Go to Edit > Fill and Fill the selection with black. Most of your land masses should now be black with fades along the side.
Deselect (Ctrl D) and double-click on the “Mountains” layer to open the Layer Styles dialog box. Add the following:
Under Drop Shadow:
Blend Mode: Multiply Black
Angle: 135 (relational to your Sun)
Distance: 20px;
Spread: 0px;
Size: 10px;
Under Bevel and Emboss:
Style: Inner Bevel;
Technique: Smooth;
Depth: 42%;
Under Color Overlay:
Dark Green (#358a4d) or whatever color matches your original landmass.
Opacity: 100%;
Under Pattern Overlay:
Blend Mode: Disolve;
Pattern: Bubbles;
Click OK. You now should have a very good 3D representation of mountaineous areas on your landmasses. We’re now done with our land and water. Lock those two groups.
Step 5 - Create new layer, name “Clouds” in new “Clouds” Folder
On the “Clouds” layer, color it #ece6e6. Create a layer mask. With the layer mask selected, Render Clouds. Go to Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast. Adjust Contrast to +100. Leave Brightness at 0. We will be doing the same thing we did with the landmasses. Once you’ve defined your clouds double click on the layer to open the Layer Styles dialog box. apply the following settings:
Drop Shadow:
Angle: 135;
Distance: 91px;
Spread: 9%;
Size: 76px;
Outer Glow:
Blend Mode: Screen;
Color: White (#FFFFFF);
Elements > Size: 5px;
Bevel and Emboss:
Style: Inner Bevel;
Technique: Smooth;
Depth: 898%;
Size: 1px;
Soften: 2px;
Color Overlay:
Blend Mode: Normal;
Color: #ece6e6;
Opacity: 100%;
Pattern Overlay:
Pattern: Bubbles;
When you click OK, you should notice we have good definition in our clouds. You should also notice we’ve created blurry shadows on our planet’s surface. We’ve also made our shadows long because the perception that we will be taking in the Space picture is that the Sun is low on the horizon. The problem may arise when we spherize our planet. Let’s keep our fingers crossed!
Step 6 - Spherize
This is the easiest part of all. First, duplicate all of your layers. Lock the originals to assure we do not get reckless. Also tag them invisible. Merge all visible layers except the Background layer. Rename your layer ‘Final’. Draw a circular marquee across your canvas (You can hold Shift while dragging to get a “perfect” circle). Go to Filter > Distort > Spherize at 50%. After you click OK, use Ctrl F two more times to enhance the sphere. Then use Ctrl I to invert your selection and delete.
Step 7 - Create and name new layer “Atmosphere”
With the “Atmosphere” layer selected, Ctrl Click on the “Final” layer image. This should redraw your circular marquee. Fill the marquee with any color. Then change the Layer’s Fill to 0. Next, double click on the “Atmosphere” layer and apply the following Layer Styles:
Under Outer Glow:
Change your color to a light blue (I used #0096f5)
Blend Mode: Screen;
Technique: Softer;
Spread: 10%;
Size: 158px
When complete, copy your “Atmosphere” layer. Make sure you keep it on top. Then merge “Atmosphere” with “Final” and rename the layer “Final”. You are now finished with the planet. Is it what you were hoping for? I hope so!
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